Ghumakkadi Logo

Odisha Adventure: Chilika, Lighthouse Beach & Rath Yatra Diaries

By Sahil Goyal

A 7-day immersive journey through Odisha’s iconic Chilika Lake, Lighthouse Beach, Rajhans Island, and the grand Jagannath Rath Yatra. Experienced serene backwaters, local cuisine, camping adventures, and the hustle of Bhubaneswar’s streets while traveling with friends Deepak and Rana.
Odisha Adventure: Chilika, Lighthouse Beach & Rath Yatra Diaries

This Odisha trip, from 23rd to 30th June, was a mix of adventure, culture, and personal experiences that made it truly memorable. The journey began from Murthal, navigating chaotic auto and bus rides, ticket confusions, and crowded metro and train stations. Despite minor hassles, the excitement of starting the journey kept the spirits high. Traveling with Deepak and Rana, the early train rides were filled with amusing incidents, chance meetings, and glimpses of serene green fields and village life along the way.


Reaching Chilika Lake and Rajhans Island, we found ourselves surrounded by peaceful backwaters, grazing buffaloes, and playful dolphins. Setting up camp on the island was a mix of fun and challenge, with local kids playing nearby and safety concerns prompting us to move to a nearby hall. Alok Bhai and Santosh Sir guided us through local logistics, making sure we had safe spots to rest and freshen up. Early morning boat rides, empty beaches, and quiet forest areas provided moments of calm, while conversations and laughter with companions added warmth to the adventure.


Food was a highlight throughout the trip — from street snacks like golgappe, maggi, sweet corn, and kheer to hearty meals at island restaurants including crab, fish, prawns, and dal-chawal. We also experienced homemade breakfasts at locals’ homes and shared simple joys like coconut water and tea. Nights were adventurous too, with rain, power cuts, and mosquitoes testing our camping skills, but making the memories all the more vivid.


The cultural experience peaked with visits to Alarnath Temple and Jagannath Rath Yatra in Bhubaneswar. Participating in darshan, observing prasad distribution, and navigating the crowded Rath Yatra roads gave an authentic glimpse of Odisha’s religious traditions. Amidst all this, moments of humor, minor misadventures, and shared meals strengthened the bond with my companions and made every day an unforgettable experience.


This trip blended exploration, local interactions, natural beauty, and cultural immersion seamlessly, leaving a lasting impression of Odisha’s vibrant landscapes, traditions, and the joy of traveling with like-minded companions.

Trip Map
Trip Entries

From Home to New Delhi Station

The trip kicked off at 8 PM on 23rd June, leaving home in Murthal. A quick auto ride to Murthal Chowk cost just ₹10, followed by a HPRTC bus heading to ISBT. The start wasn’t without drama — the conductor initially took the money but refused to give a ticket. After insisting firmly, I finally received my ticket. Later at Bahalgarh, another passenger paid via UPI but still didn’t get a ticket — a small reminder that traveling in India always comes with its quirks.

By 9:15 PM, I reached outside ISBT and hopped on the metro to New Delhi, paying ₹20 online. At New Delhi Railway Station, a minor ticket mix-up added to the adventure. While booking on EVTM, I mistakenly selected the mail train instead of the superfast train for the journey from Delhi to Puri. The price difference was only ₹15, but if caught by the TTE, the fine would have been ₹265. I wanted to cancel, but the ticket window lines were too long, so I decided to board the train with the ticket as it was.

Navigating the station was another challenge — platforms weren’t clearly marked, and a police officer gave conflicting directions. On the stairs to Platform 14, I came across an unexpected sight: a man lying completely unclothed! Eventually, after stepping outside the station and joining a separate long queue for platform 16, I finally found my train and settled into the general coach, ready for the next leg of the journey. Read more

Through Fields and Memories: Delhi to Odisha by Train

Boarding the train late at night, I found an empty seat on the upper berth in the general compartment, which surprisingly wasn’t very crowded. I dozed off on the floor and continued my journey through the night. By 4 AM, we reached Kanpur, where more passengers boarded, and I returned to my seat on upper berth. There was a chain-pulling incident, and some children who had been left behind at a station eventually reunited with their parents — small, human moments that made the long journey feel alive.

As evening approached on 24th June, the train crossed Bolera Steel City Station, and the scenery transformed into expansive green fields dotted with grazing buffaloes and shimmering ponds. Children played freely in the open spaces, and glimpses of old mud houses added a nostalgic charm. It was a serene contrast to the bustling start of the trip, and a reminder of the peaceful landscapes that awaited us in Odisha. Read more

Morning Chaos and Beach Time at Puri

On 25th June, I was dropped off at Puri around 5:45 AM. I met Deepak, who had been on the same train but in a different coach due to his reserved seat. Our first task was to find a proper toilet and a place to freshen up, but unfortunately, there were none available, and the AC waiting hall had long queues. We returned to the platform, charged our phones, and waited for Rana, who arrived about an hour later. We also got some water bottles filled for ₹10.

As we stepped out of the station, a TTE briefly stopped us because of my mail train ticket, causing a 10-minute delay, but fortunately no fine was imposed. From there, we walked to the beach and spent a good amount of time bathing and relaxing. Later, we refreshed ourselves with fresh coconut water at ₹50 per piece before heading toward Mandir Road to catch the Alarnath bus. Finding it closed, Deepak and Rana enjoyed some chaat, and then we took an auto to the bus stand for ₹50. Read more

Entry Image

Bus and Boat Journey to Chilika Lake Island

After waiting for some time at the bus stop, a private bus heading to Satpada arrived, and we boarded it for Alarnath, paying ₹50 per head. The bus quickly filled up within a few minutes. Upon reaching Alarnath, all three of us took a bath at the local toilet complex, paying ₹20 each — the facilities were far from hygienic. Deepak and Rana then joined the temple darshan line while I waited under a shed with other visitors, some of whom were eating, donating, or serving food to priests and Brahmins. After about an hour, they returned, and we all had lunch together — a plate costing ₹100 and a bowl of kheer for ₹50. I also bought a USB cable for my iPhone to charge my power bank, while Deepak bought a mat.

From there, we took another private bus to Satpada for ₹30 per head, and upon arrival, we boarded a boat to cross over to Chilika Lake island, paying ₹5 per head. During the boat ride, I chatted with a few fellow travelers about camping plans and shared our travel stories. It was there that I met Santosh sir, who had previously visited Sonipat for a government exam.

On the island, I teamed up with Alok, who showed us a cemented cricket pitch suitable for setting up camp, while children nearby played volleyball. As darkness fell, we began setting up our camp, but due to safety concerns — cows and bulls gathering nearby — we decided to fold it and move to a hall/bhawan on the island.

Inside the hall, we met Santosh sir again and other locals conducting tuition for children. We settled in, enjoyed pakode (local snacks) outside, and later had a hearty dinner prepared by Alok bhai, consisting of aloo bhujia, egg bhurji, and roti. The lights went out around 9 PM, and we finally slept by 9:20 PM, though electricity was restored shortly afterward. Read more

Entry Image

Village Life on Chilika Lake Island

The morning of 26th June offered a serene glimpse into life on the island. We woke around 5:40 AM and met Alok bhai, who kindly helped us store our bags at his home. After a quick freshening up by the lake, we enjoyed a hearty breakfast at Alok’s relative’s house — gulgule, puri, and chole-matar.

As we explored the village, we observed the rhythm of daily life on the island. Children played freely, locals went about their chores, and small shops lined the narrow paths. The simplicity, warmth, and strong sense of community made the experience truly memorable, offering an authentic glimpse into island life. Read more

Entry Image

Morning Boat Ride and Sightseeing Around Chilika Lake

Later that morning, we set off on a boat ride around Chilika Lake. Alok bhai arranged the boat through a friend, and we paid ₹300 for diesel before departing around 8:45 AM. Our first stop was Raj Hans Dolphin Point, where we caught glimpses of dolphins several times, though we didn’t land there. On the return journey, we explored a deserted beach under the forest department’s jurisdiction — pristine, quiet, and completely untouched by crowds.

By 11:30 AM, we arrived at a small island restaurant. Deepak and Rana savored fresh seafood — fish, crab, prawns, and dal-chawal (₹250 per person) — while I used the time to video call my family. On the boat ride back, Deepak and Rana took naps, but I stayed standing, soaking in the views. Around 1:10 PM, we returned to our starting point, freshened up with some freshwater along the way, collected our bags from Alok bhai’s home, and then continued by boat and bus toward Satpada.

The journey offered a mix of calm lake waters, breathtaking scenery, and warm interactions with locals and fellow travelers, blending adventure with an authentic glimpse of life around Chilika Lake. Read more

Beach Time, Street Food & Evening Chill at Lighthouse Beach

After leaving Alok bhai’s place, we headed to the boat pickup point and boarded at 2:30 PM, reaching Satpada by 2:50 PM (₹5 per head). The bus to Lighthouse Beach was delayed, so we grabbed some chena poda for a snack (₹90). Finally, the bus departed at 3:30 PM (₹60 per head), dropping us near the bypass at 5:30 PM. We walked 3.5 km through the streets to reach Lighthouse Beach and arranged accommodation at a nearby math/natyamandir hall (₹150 per head, clean hall and toilets).

After settling in, we freshened up and headed to the beach, which quickly got crowded. Street food highlights included maggi (₹70), golgappe (₹20), sweet corn (₹40), a roll, and eggs (₹30), shared among us. Around 9:15 PM, Yash called to join us, and we finalized expenses in Excel, clearing Rana’s share. Later, we made maggi upstairs; some batches turned slightly undercooked due to water issues. Deepak had already gone to sleep downstairs. Rain affected the upper floor, so we returned downstairs and finally slept around 11:30 PM. Read more

Entry Image

Experiencing the Chaos and Charm of the Rath Yatra

The day started early at 5:45 AM with the morning aarti at the mandir. After freshening up and washing up, we set off for the yatra around 9 AM. My camera faced issues, so I left it at the math. Walking 2 km behind the mandir, we navigated through crowded streets and tried to get near the raths, but heavy crowds pushed us back to the main yatra road. Along the way, we enjoyed refreshing drinks like jal jeera, lassi, and sweet water, and kept well-hydrated under the spray of water along the route. Coconut distribution was a highlight—Rana eagerly collected them, and we had plenty throughout the day.

The yatra started later than expected, around 6 PM. The raths initially didn’t move, so we attended to basic needs, including using the pond-side and toilet facilities. Balbhadr Ji’s rath slowly advanced, and we positioned ourselves near it amidst a massive crowd. Subhadra Ji's rath later started moving, and we shifted our spot accordingly. Crossing points and the third rath posed challenges due to crowd density.

By 7:30 PM, we rested near the mandir backside for a few minutes before returning to the math around 8 PM; We freshened up and relaxed. Yash joined us around 9:30 PM with coconut treats. Dinner was taken at the math, and the day concluded with sleep around 10:30 PM after a fully immersive Rath Yatra experience. Read more

Darshan, Prashad & Rath Festivities at Jagannath Mandir

The night had been restless due to mosquitoes, but we woke up at 5:45 AM for the morning aarti. By 7 AM, we were freshened up and ready. Payments for the previous stay (₹600) and meals (₹300) were settled with the math’s caretaker. We then walked from our stay to the mandir behind the premises for darshan.

Inside the mandir, phones were not allowed, and shorts were restricted. Yash adjusted my parna as a lungi to comply with the rules. Entry tickets were ₹10 each for viewing the prashad kitchen. The mandir premises were mostly clean, including the smaller shrines, and a small market similar to Alarnath sold prashad items. After darshan, we went outside and called the others to join.

Later, we moved toward the Jagannath rath. The crowds were heavy, so Guru and Yash went closer while we stayed slightly ahead. Other participants were already at Gundicha. We also visited Ambani’s bhandara, where food like rice, dal, chole, and gulab jamun was served with proper hygiene and well-managed queues. This time, we didn’t touch any rath.

As the last rath passed by, the crowd grew denser. We tried ice cream and malai rabdi, though it didn’t leave much impression. We rested briefly behind the mandir before continuing our exploration. Read more

Beachside Adventures and Rainy Night at Lighthouse

After returning to the math, everyone slept and woke up around 5 PM. Guru and Yash left for Bhubaneswar at 5:30 PM, while our train was scheduled around 10 PM, so we had some time before departure. The evening aarti took place at 6:45 PM, and by 8 PM we were ready to head out.

We walked toward Lighthouse Beach, eventually catching a persistent rickshaw that dropped us at the railway station for ₹50 total. Along the way, we passed other beaches hosting fairs and markets, and tried golgappe (₹10 by me). The station was extremely crowded, so we returned after a few minutes and took a bus to Lighthouse Beach (₹15 per head), but got off 2 km earlier at another beach due to the mela.

At this beach, we had sweet corn (₹30). We noticed a man with a cycle attempting a Four Dham yatra, which was unusual. Passing through stalls set up by self-help groups, we paused briefly for a program, then moved toward the swings (Jhula). Tickets were ₹80 for rides, but there was no place to store our bags. A photo of a clay creation was deleted when a vendor insisted on a donation.

Later, Deepak tried to find beer, but shops were either closed or selling at exorbitant prices (₹250), so we skipped it. I bought chocolates, syrup, and biscuits (₹50) before settling on the beach. Around 11 PM, we set up a tent under a canopy. Deepak brought chicken biryani for himself, mushroom soup for me, and a water bottle (₹220). Deepak slept outside the tent on a mat, while I secured myself inside with a chain. We finally slept around 1 AM.

During the night, rain arrived, prompting Deepak to move inside the tent. Rain covers were added, and the chain was secured. The beach remained active with people throughout the night, interrupting my sleep multiple times. We eventually got up around 7:30 AM to start the day. Read more

Journey Back: Lighthouse to Murthal via Buses and Train

Spent the morning leisurely at the beach, sometimes relaxing and sometimes wandering around. At 10:30 AM, we left and I went to freshen up at a paid toilet in the parking area (₹10). Nearby, an Adani Group stall was distributing juice, which we tried in two glasses and also filled a 250ml bottle. The stall maintained proper dustbins.

Initially, we boarded a private bus that offered to drop passengers at bus stand but later said to drop at the railway station, so we got off that bus. From Lighthouse, we took an AC bus (₹15 per head, ₹30 total, ticket booked online) to the Puri bus stand. Walking 3 km from the drop, we reached Talibania by 12:50 PM. At 1:20 PM, Bus No. 50 departed for Bhubaneswar Railway Station, ticket booked online via the Ama Bus app at ₹99 per person. We reached Bhubaneswar by 3:35 PM.

At the railway station, we booked train tickets via ATVM machines for ₹440 per head and boarded the Sampark Kranti train at 4:15 PM. The train had few stoppages and bypassed Bihar, stopping only at Mugalsarai, Kanpur, and finally Anand Vihar. Deepak took the side window seat, while I occupied the upper berth. Most of the journey, I either slept or relaxed.

On 30 June, I woke up around 7 AM. Deepak snacked intermittently on samosas, Soda, Pakode. He also filled water bottles as train toilets had low water pressure, which persisted even after topping up at Kanpur. Our train reached Anand Vihar at 7:15 PM, slightly earlier than scheduled. Deepak took about 20 minutes to freshen up at the station.

We booked the metro tickets, but some of Deepak’s bag items were checked and not allowed, so he booked an Uber bike but canceled it too due to extra charges, finally taking a bus. I traveled via metro to Kashmiri Gate and by 8:45 PM boarded the Ambala bus back to Murthal (ticket ₹45).

The day was mostly spent traveling, coordinating buses and trains, managing food and water, and dealing with logistical challenges, but the journey back was smooth overall. Read more